1998 Honda CRV

1998 Honda CRV questions and answers

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Q: 1998 Honda CRV running rough, trouble going up hills, stalling out?
1998 Honda CRV ~190,000 miles. The car has had little or no mechanical problems in the past. A week or two ago, I noticed a knocking or something while cruising down the highway. It went away so I didn't think anything. Today, it started doing the same thing, except it kept getting worse. I drove approximately 30 miles before it started to happen. It was idling rough, and when I would try to go off a stoplight or up a hill, it would hesitate, stumble, and have just barely enough power to make it up the hill. When I put it in reverse to try and park (backwards uphill) the car stalled out, and turned over much longer than usual before it restarted. I just checked the oil before I left by chance, and it was good, even perhaps a little over the maximum. I checked it again after all the trouble, and it was around the minimum, but I'm also parked on a very steep hill and it was dark so I'm not quite sure. Check engine light is on, but it passed inspection recently and the light has been on for as long as I can remember. Any help would be greatly appreciated, as I can't exactly afford a tow and a costly repair. Thank you.

A: I've had this problem before. There's a pretty easy solution. Put a banana in your exhaust. Make sure it's in there very firmly or else the car will reject it. Now sit in your car and turn it on. If you wait a while, you should be fine. -The OMCW

Q: how do i find out what type of security system is fitted to my 1998 honda crv.?


A: go to your a honda showroom and letb them check it . or go to a security system shop for cars and ask them to check it and they will tell u.

Q: I have a 1998 Honda CRV and I thing my starter is shot. It's making a sound like a toy machine gun? Starter?


A: I think the battery is more likely or a bad connection. Usually when the starter is bad it makes only one click or none at all.

Q: does a 1998 honda crv have a timing belt or timing chain? i think its a 2.0l four cylinder?


A: timing belt is correct. certified honda tech here

Q: what is a good price to pay, for a low mlage 1998 honda crv?


A: go to Kelley blue book, you need to specify the mileage, if it being sold private or retail....good, fair, excellent condition.

Q: unable to fill freon in Honda crv 1998?


A: Why not? Isn't it 134? you can get it from any auto parts house

Q: name good brand radiator for Honda CRV -1998 model?


A: mayo radiators or oem.

Q: my honda crv is having difficulty shifting gears and the engine becomes noisy at high speed. what is the prob?
its a 1998 honda crv. i have it checked and while at the repairshop, the mechanic say that the engine suddenly was cut and don't want to start anymore. he say the distributor should be changed.

A: could be a clutch plate & pressure plate problem..

Q: honda crv cars rear fog light,1998th year?
i'm looking to buy the rear fog light cover for my 1998 honda,crv.from where can i but one,tell me please. terence from england

A: Just pop into the parts department at the Honda dealer.

Q: mp3 jack for honda crv?
How, if possoble would i go about being able to hook up and mp3 player to my 1998 honda crv stock cd player? is there just a cord to buy and hook in the back of it? but i dont have a cassete player, its a ghetto car.

A: You can use any of the Mp3 player by connecting it with Car Cassette Adapter. Just connect your Mp3 player with cassette adapter , then put the cassette in ot your cars cassette slote.You are ready to goooo... http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sony-CP-A9-Car-Adapter-Kit/dp/B00007EDLW/ref=pd_sbs_ce_2/026-7588769-3322044

Q: honda crv (rear axle-aust spec)?
hey i have a 1998 honda crv. when i chuck a u-turn for make a turn on full lock the axle makes a loud noise wat issert?

A: That condition is very common on the CR-V. The answer is that the differential fluid needs to be changed. Honda dealers will charge about $40 to change it and your noise will go away. Trust me on this one--I've seen it on every CR-V with mileage on it. The differential gear oil breaks down and causes the shutter. hope that helps

Q: temp rising on honda crv?
i have a honda crv 1998 model . my temp goes up after we have been driving it a while. i have had my themostat replaced and a fan switch . i am also getting a tube replaced which is leaking. the garage do not think it is the head gasket as there are no other symptoms other than temp going up . they think the leak could be a cause but seemed stumped. it is costing me a fortune ruling out things it could be. has anyone had anything simuluar and got it sorted. IT IS GOING UP TO THE RED . IT HAPPENS WHILE WE DRIVE. THE FAN IS WORKING NOW THE SWITCH HAS BEEN REPLACED BUT GARAGE SAID IT STILL HAPPENED WHEN THEY TOOK IT OUT THE SECOND TIME. THEY HAVE DONE A PRESSURE TEST AND THEY SAY WE HAVE A LEAK BUT DID NOT KNOW WHERE UNTIL THEY FOUND ONE IN A TUBE. ( NOT SURE WHICH ONE.) yes we have air con.

A: how high is the temperture going up? is it going into the red zone? is it happening when you slow down to a stop or while your driving down the road? If its happenig when you are at a stop, you may have a bad radiator fan. Try this--run your air conditioning system when the car is running hot. if the temperature returns to normal range then the problem is with your radiator fan or radiator fan circuit. if the temperature doesn't come down then you have a problem with the cooling system. the first thing would be to check the coolant specific gravity to see if the coolant is at full strength. too much coolant to water ratio can make the coolant less stable and cause the vehicle to run hot. same with too little coolant. coolant to water ratio should be 50%. its common for people to add coolant thinking it will help when in reality it makes it worse. if the coolant strength is okay, have the cooling system bled. air gets trapped in the cooling system and can cause the vehicle to run hot as it blocks the full circulation of coolant through the system. sort of like a gas bubble. ifits still running hot after the air is bled out check for restrictions in the heater core. put the heater on when its running hot and see if you have hot air. if you do the coolant is circulating through the core. if y ou don't you may have a blockage that is not allowing coolant to flow through and that could cause the problem. if you haven't done so already, repalce your pressure cap. if the cap is weak then the cooling capacity is reduced and can cause the vehicle to run hot. a cooling system pressure test will tell you if you have a leak. the test takes about 5 minutes to do. if you had a bad head gasket you would have a cloud of white smoke out of the tail pipe or an external leak. you probably have neither, so I'd bet your head gasket is okay those are some inexpensive ideas. hope they help

Q: Honda CRV LX1998 model - radiator?
Please help me to find a radiator for Honda CRV lx 1998 model, with 165000 miles. The radiator has a crack at the top by the radiator cap and I need to add coolent every week. thanks.

A: might as well replace it with those kinda miles http://www.car-stuff.com/mmparts/honda-crv/radiator.html if you are handy, order it, drain the antifreeze, disconnect the wire to the fan, disconnect top/bottom hoses, remove bolts holding radiator, put out, fans are usually attached to radiator, so switch it to new radiator and reverse the process, if the antifreeze is not more then a couple years old, catch it and reuse it, caution don't let your dog lap any of it (its sweet) or it will poison him

Q: Can a radiator replacement of my Honda crv cause the shock absorbers to go bad?
Question Details: I have a 1998 Honda CR-V and took it in for an oil change. Found out that I needed a new radiator. Car has 113,000 miles. When I got the car back from the radiator replacement, I drove it home and it felt like I was driving a truck or a boat. Every bump made my car shake and bounce. I took it back and they said the pressure in the tires (which they also rotated) was too much. They lowered the pressure, but the car still bounces any time I go over any type of bumps. And when I press on the brake to stop and the car finally comes to a stop, the back end of the car is still moving and shaking back and forth. Why did this happen when they just changed the radiator. My car was driving just fine before I brought it in. Heading back to the Honda dealership for the 3rd day in a row for resolution. Just wanted to be able to talk "car intelligent" to the dealership tomorrow. Thanks in advance for any insight.

A: Lucy- Its not the fact they changed the Radiator or adjusted the air in your tires. I have encountered this problem before as a mechanic. Sometimes what will happen is the shocks get "work worn" into a certain location within the shock tube. Let me explain. Shock Absorbers are nothing more than an oil filled tube with a plunger, rubber "O" rings, check valves and control valves, filled with a light oil and pressurised with gas. As you drive your car the plunger locates itself in a certain location in the shock tube, (this is the part you see with your eye). After miles and miles of the plunger working in a particular location inside the tube is wears a spot in the steel. This is partly due to failing seals on the end of the shock ram. As this debris accumulates it acts like sand paper in that one single section of the shock tube. Now having said that, the O Ring Seal can no longer maintain its proper sealing function within the shock tube. So what will happen is this allows the oil and the gas to leak by that seal, and the springs that your car are riding on are no longer controlled by the absorbers. By lifting the vehicle off the ground to service your radiator the wheels and shocks are allowed to go to their full extension, picking up this debris and collecting it in front of or behind that O-Ring Seal. Now the seal cannot do its job and the shocks will fail to control the suspension springs. So when the vehicle was returned to the ground and the shocks returned to their "Rest" position they allowed the pressurized gas and oil to escape, or enough debris built up inside the shock and disabled the control and check valves, rendering the shock useless. This eventually happens to all shocks. Its just in the lighter vehicles you are more prone to feeling it because they are so light. I would recommend that you have the shocks and struts replaced before the wet weather gets really started. Having bad shocks and struts during the wet weather is an excellent recipie for a very severe accident. Good Luck, I hope I helped you out!