1997 Honda Civic
1997 Honda Civic questions and answers
Got Your Eye On The 1997 Honda Civic? Go To LemonFree.com Automobile Search Engine, For The Best Deals!
Looking for Cheap Car Insurance? Click here now!
Q: Timing belt of my Honda Civic 1997 broke but now it is giving a tic tic noise after belt replacement?
Timing belt of my Honda civic 1997 broke. I got the belt replaced but now engine is giving a knocking noise (tic tic) . What can be the reason. I heard Honda Engine is designed in a way that if timing belt breaks, cylinders do not damage the valve. Is this knocking in engine due to bent valve?
A: You'll have to check to see if it is an interference engine. If it is, it will bend the valves 999 times out of 1000! Sorry.
Q: How much are door mouldings for a 1997 Honda Civic?
Somebody stole the door mouldings on my 97 Civic and my dad is beyond pissed. Generally, how much are these car parts?
A: look them up on ebay
Q: how much does a cat converter for 1997 honda civic cost?
need to replace cat converter on my honda civic it is plugged and won't pass the emission test.
A: www.repairpal.com ... should give u a great estimate
Q: What is the best motor to put in a 1997 Honda Civic hatch?
I was wondering what motor would be best for a 97 civic hatch?
also cheap,easy and the most horse power.
What is the best engine to put in a 1997 Honda Civic Hatch???
cheap,
easy,
and fast.
A: Horsepower is a made up number, so there's no reason you need it.
Seriously.
It's just torque, multiplied by one number, then divided by another.
I could substitute any numbers I wanted in there, call it Monkey Power, and it'd be just as useful to mention. My car, for example, has 1700~ monkey power.
Who cares? It doesn't indicate how fast my car is, how well I drive, or anything else.
Torque however, is what moves your car down the road. So, that's important. The previous poster listed a great site for a motor to put in your car.
(cars have engines, by the way....not motors....but since you asked for a motor...that's what he gave you)
Q: How much should I sell a 1997 Honda Civic 6 speed manual?
It's brakes are operating at about 20% and it has 167,000 miles. Otherwise it's in decent shape.
Yeah sorry I meant 5 speed.
A: Do you mean 5-speed manual? If so, about 4,000 would be a good price.
Q: How do you change a timing belt for a 1997 Honda Civic DX?
If there are resources or manuals you know of to do this, that would be extremely helpful.
A: A Haynes manual is about $18 from yer nearest parts store.
Q: Why is my 1997 Honda Civic Ex making loud engine noises when accelerating?
Besides the noise, I can feel the vibration from the driver's seat. When traveling long distance at about 75mph, the constant noise of the engine is very distracting to our conversation in the car. Please advice.
Thanks honda guy. Okay, it sounds like an unmuffled engine instead of scary rattling or screeching noises. I notice the noise gets louder as the RPM meter rises. Therefore, technically it also gets louder with speed especially when I am accelerating. While cruising at a certain speed/RPM, the engine create constant unmuffled noise depends on what RPM I am at. At 3500rpm/75mph, the noise is loud enough to distract our conversation in the car.
Rev and deceleration by shifting from high gear to low gear will increase the RPM hence creating the noise too. I only feel the vibration when I am accelerating. Thank you.
A: you really aren't providing enough information for anyone to be of much help. You have a better chance of our identifying the nature of the noise and the type of vibration by giving us a more thorough desctiption.
Start with this--what does the noise sound like? Does it sound like an unmuffled engine or is it a sound like a knock, a rattle, screech, buzz, drone, hum, tick, clang, groan, whistle or some other word that you can use to describe it?
Does the noise get louder with speed? at what speed does the noise start? At what speed is it loudest? Does it occur on deceleration or only on acceleration? does it happen with the car stopped and running at idle? with the noise get louder if you rev the engine with the car stopped and running in Park or Neutral?
as for the vibration--does it happen on acceleration, coasting, deceleration, or braking? did the noise you hear start when you noticed the vibration or did they happen separately?
you could have a worn (cupped) tire or tires causing the noise and the vibration or you could have two separate problems with every possibility from a leaking exhaust manifold to internal engine problems and tire problems.
by the way, if the car is in the United States and has under 150,000 miles on it then the exhaust manifold and many of the emissions control components are covered under the extended warranty on that year car for 15 years or 150,000 miles.
the more you can tell us the more you can expect to get in return.
hope that helps
RESPONSE
The noise you describe sounds like you have a cracked exhaust manifold. it is very common on the 1997 civics. it is covered by an extended warranty on emissions equipment in the US for that year if you have less than 150,000 miles on the car.
As for the vibration, its tough to say; tire and wheel vibrations will be felt at constant speed such as cruising; if its only on acceleration I would look at the motor mounts or perhaps at the spark plugs or wires as the vibration could be a slight misfire.
Q: 1997 Honda Civic MIL (check engine light) and speedometer going crazy?
Hi,
I have a 1997 Civic. After driving for a few kms, the MIL goes on and when I park it and run it again, it doesn't go on immediately but it does go on after driving a few kms again. The speedometer also fluctuates sometimes and most of the time, it just doesn't work. The same with the odometer. The car seems to run normally without other problems. What could be causeing this?
A: you have an electronic vehicle speed sensor on the transmission that sends a signal to the on board control unit to let the fuel control system know how fast the car is going. that signal is a critical input to engine emissions control. it is also the input for the speedometer
the sensor malfunction will cause the check engine light to come on and cause the speedometer to fluctuate.
the sensor would appear to be your problem. its on top of the transmission and very easy to change.
it takes a while for the light to come on because it takes up to 20 minutes for the onboard computer to test all of the sensors to determine if they are working or not. it just depends on where in the test queue the speed sensor is as to when the failure is detected.
hope that helps
Q: How do you pressurize the fuel line on a 1997 Honda Civic?
Is it complicated or easy? How do you do it?
A: The minute you turn on your ignition, you should hear the fuel pump underneath the backseat begin to work.
This provides the initial pressure (PSI) needed to push your fuel out of your fuel tank and through your fuel filter. Your fuel filter will slightly reduce the original fuel pressure and permit the flow to continue to travel through your fuel pressure regulator before it reaches your injectors. By the time your fuel pressure regulator which further reduces the pressure, your fuel line would be automatically pressurized.
Your fuel line is usually still pressurized even when your car is not running. Which is why it is important to remove your gas cap and slowly open your service bolt from your fuel filter if you want to replace your fuel filter or install a fuel pressure gauge.
http://hondacivicrepairs.com/fuel_filter.asp?q=Repairing%20the%20Fuel%20Filter%20-%20Honda%20Civic&id=24
Good luck!
Q: What is the easiest and cheapest way to make a 1997 honda civic faster?
A: It depends on just how much faster you want. If you want another 10 hp, maybe a little more, go with the basic "breathing mods" - cold air intake, performance header, and a cat-back exhaust.
Want a bigger kick? Nitrous can give you 50 more hp, but once the bottle's empty the fun is over.
Is that a Civic DX, CX, or LX? If so, installing the intake manifold from a Civic EX will give you a little bit more power.
If you want big power gains - 50+ hp - and you want that power to be there any time you need it, don't do the mods I have listed above. Instead, save your money and go straight for an engine swap or a turbo kit, because you won't get that power with easy, minor bolt ons. You may be able to re-use a few of the mods - the manifold swap trick will work for a turbo kit, and you can probably keep the exhaust - but it's often best to start with the big mod and then buy the rest of the parts to match it.
Q: Can you help diagnose 1997 Honda Civic problem?
It's a 1.6 4 cyl standard. The idle is raising and dropping when running in park. What could be causing this?
A: Idle control valve
Q: Where is the PCV valve located in a 1997 Honda Civic?
Do I have to use a jack or can I just change it by popping the hood?
A: On top, look for a tube from the valve cover to the air intake. Valve usually located at base of this tube.
Q: Air conditioning problem on 1997 Honda Civic?
On my 1997 Honda Civic CX hatchback, the air conditioner no longer comes on at the lowest 2 settings (out of 4). I hear the radiator fan come on when I move the switch to "1" or "2", but no air comes out of the vents. When I move the switch to "3" or "4", the air conditioner comes on, and at the correct level (the same force it has always come out at for that level).
Any ideas what could cause this behavior? I just spent a lot of money fixing it after "grazing" a deer (spun the car and slammed driver side into a curb, bending the rear suspension) and would rather not spend much more money on this car so I'm hoping this is something I can fix myself.
A: the speed of the blower motor is controlled by an electrical component called a "resistor block". The resistor block has four possible paths for current to flow through. The path that corresponds to the low fan speed has a high resistance so that the most of the voltage that flows through that path is used overcoming the resistance; as a result the blower motor works slowly. The other paths have incrementally less resistance so that a greater voltage reachs the motor to turn it faster in the higher switch positions.
In your case, the resistor has burnt out the two low speed paths. Think of the path as the filament in a light bulb that burns out; when that happens electricity can't flow through it and the light doesn't work any longer.
You'll probably lose the third speed next. The fourth speed is unrestricted and should remain operational. To fix the problem replace the blower motor resistor.
Hope that helps